Share your pointers for those that are new to a Kel-Tec P-3AT or have never done a disassembly. Although very easy to do, the simple process can be hard the first time if certain processes are not followed.

My pointers.

1. When doing a disassembly, only remove the 2 top frame pins (202), not the hammer block axis (270) located in the grip area of the grip. If you remove the latter, the hammer block (272) and spring (273) will fall out and they are a booger to get back in place.

2. When doing a reassembly, when you begin putting the frame (210) back into the grip, before you seat the back end (hammer end), leave enough of a space that you can slide a very thin object (I use the wooden end of a Q-tip) to push the hammer block (272) in front of the hammer (271), when you do this the frame (210) will seat correctly. If this is not done correctly, you will not be able to put the slide (152) back in place and the trigger (252) will be locked.

3. When you remove the frame (210), you will most likely cause the trigger bar (260) to pop off. No big deal, just beware of this, to get it back in place, you have to wind the trigger spring (256) back over the top of the bar and let it rest just under the bottom of the bar. That holds it in place.

4. Just doing a simple field strip can cause an issue if you do not pay attention to the ejector (115). I usually just go ahead and remove it before handling the grip, as it will often fall out in your lap or floor and it can be hard to find at that point.

5. If you remove the firing pin (170), notice that when you are putting it back into place, there is a slot on it that must be positioned to allow the extractor botton head (183) to screw back in.

Attached Images

A cool interactive guide to how the Kel-Tecs work

Just click one of the guns below.

My theory: most Kel-Tec issues would disappear with.......

No doubt the Kel-Tecs are not the top of the line pistols, but they are certainly not the bottom of the line either, far from it in my opinion. I carry a Kel-Tec P-3AT daily and I completely trust it as I would any .380 (as I always have a big boy not far away in my truck (Glock 23)). 

I see forum posts regularly about issues with Kel-Tecs, but I also think a common thread here is that they are not cleaned and lubricated well before the first shoot and regularly after each following shoot. Kel-Tecs do not like to be dirty or dry, that does not mean it is an undependable gun. It is up to us to keep our weapons immaculate, whether it is a Kel-Tec or a Kimber. I surmise that very few of us would have any FTF or FTE issues if our guns stayed cleaned and well lubed. As many have said on this forum, a little grease instead of oil, is a good thing on the slide grooves of a Kel-Tec (the opposite would be true on a Glock, they run better drier).

Secondly, if one always uses reputable, new, clean, brass ammunition I expect the same would hold true, very few FTE and FTF. Now I know that a Glock can perform with most any thing you put in it, but the Kel-Tec is more selective. Those of us that love the Kel-tec for a variety of reasons should consider this too.

With this said, I also know that there are some manufacturing failures, weak pieces that break, stress fractures, etc., but what manufacturer does not have these. All I am saying is the common FTF and FTE issues that give pause to some folks about Kel-Tecs might be a false impression and can be rectified by doing something we should do with all our guns.

Just my $0.02.

Practice Weapons Malfunction Drills

Here is a good article from the Firearms Talk blog on "Practice Weapons Malfunction Drills".

"So you depend on your semi-automatic pistol to save your life if needed, right? You researched your firearm, searched for holsters and accessories, and shoot and train often for accuracy and weapon manipulation, so you got all the bases covered. Unless you also include some sort of weapons malfunction immediate action drills, you could be planning to fail. 

What do you do immediately if you have a weapon malfunction? "

Shine up that barrel.....

With a little effort, you can make your factory P-3AT barrel look a lot better. Take sandpaper in this order (320,400,600,800,1000,1500,2000) and sand for 2-4 minutes using a wetting agent (I used ballistol). Next use #0000 steel wool, again with the wetting agent (ballistol in my case) for a good 4  minute scrub. You will end up with a barrel that shines like a mirror.

The mag grip extension

I have heard several talk about the P-3AT mag extension, both pros and cons. I decided to give it a try and so far I like it. I am not sure it adds any functionality, but it does add some comfort and it looks classy.

The belt clip

Kel-Tec has a sweet little belt clip (or inside the boot clip) for the P-3AT which will also fit the Ruger LCP. Find it here.